Bandhkala or Vichitrapuri Saree
Bandhkala (also known as Baandha) is a complex tied-dyed weave art which originated in Odisha, India. Popularly the Bandhkala saree is known as Vichitrapuri or Bichitrapuri saree in the lands of Odisha. Traditionally it is available in nine exotic colors but, you can always customize the color of as per your wish. These sarees are mostly made from Cotton.
Baandha Saree (Image Courtesy: wikimedia)
Origin and History
Traditionally, the sarees of Odisha were available in four basic colors that are found on Lord Jaganath. The origin of the Vichitrapuri sarees does not have a mention in the history as such. But, the Bandhkala originated somewhere in the early years of 19th Century. The origin and popularity of Bandhkala led to the weaving of Vichitrapuri sarees which has a lot of Bandhkala involved.
Sources of Inspiration
The embroidery along the fabrics leads one to believe that the main source of inspiration as far as colors and patterns are concerned is the main lord of Puri, Lord Jagannatha. The beauty lies in the main body of the saree which is an interwoven weft of Gold and Silk threads creating fabric richness. The weavers create basic geometric patterns that figuratively look amazing when the saree is created and sold. The borders are painted with the various geometric patterns involved in creating shankha, and chakra designs.
Varieties
The Ikat dyeing technique involved in making the Vichitrapuri sarees is same as that for the sambhalpuri variety. Most sarees of the Vichitrapuri variety come with a fish border. This saree generally comes in 6-8 colors. The body of this saree is woven in the pasapalli style giving the fabric an eternally rich and contending look.
Bandhkala Saree (Image Courtesy: dbp045.blogspot.in)
Present Day Scenario
In the present times, there are textiles that give out the Vichitrapuri variety of sarees. What was initially hand woven and mastered, is now woven in the textiles? This way the sarees are customized to various colors. The textile dyes are available in more colors hence giving out these sarees in multi-colored varieties. Also with the increasing popularity of these sarees, employment is growing in the lands of Odisha.
Innovations
The innovations in this saree have come up in the matters of customized colors. Now one can have these sarees in the colors of their choice. Also, the sarees have started developing in various different materials making them available for a variety of occasions. One can see the stars draping this Vichitrapuri Sarees giving it fame and popularity deserved.
Occasion Dressing
This material started out as a marriage fabric. Slowly, this saree has now taken over the world in a variety of fabrics leading people to believe that it can be used for other occasions as well. Today, apart from weddings people drape this saree when attending a party or festival also. The saree has been adorned by stars in award functions as well.
Accessorizing
Sarees that are made out of gold and silk threads would look good when adorned with gold and silver jewellery. So, one can wear good gold or silver sets whichever goes well with the saree. With the colors increasing to blue and other, even pearl or jade sets would go well with the saree.
Chronicles of the Future Foretold
These sarees are growing popular in the West as well. One can see that the politicians who are ambassadors of the country adorn these sarees when visiting people living in the West, thus increasing its popularity. Moreover, the textile production has led to the increase in supply of these sarees matching its demand.
Vichitrapuri Saree (Image Courtesy: odisha handloom)
Interesting Facts and Comparisons
- Both sambhalpuri and vichitrapuri sarees have similar ikat dyeing but, they both are different in their patterns and pallus.
- Traditionally these sarees were available only in Black and Maroon.
References
Categories: Motifs & Embroideries