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Kasuti Embroidery

 A style of embroidery that has caught the world unaware, the kasuti style of Dharwad sarees is indeed mystic. A style that has found its origins in the seven scenic hills, kasuti is a hand woven variety of embroidery. Basically found in the Silk pallus, Kasuti embroidery consists of interwoven geometric patterns that make up for this interesting design. It has mostly been adapted from the temple designs and architectural musings of the surroundings.

Kasuti Embroidery

Kasuti Embroidery (Source: eagerneedler blog)

Origin & History

This style originated way back in the 7th century in the lands of Western Karnataka in the regions of Dharwad. This is the real source of the name Dharwad Sarees The name has a very kannada feel to it with Kai’ meaning hand and Suti’ meaning Cotton to make up for Kasuti embroidery which literally means handwork of Cotton thread. This embroidery pattern found its source in the Ikal sarees, a variety of cotton sarees found in the regions of Ikal. The tradition followed was to gift a bride a blue embroidered Cotton saree. This was later extended towards the Silk varieties. Today a lot of Silk sarees and pallus are embroidered using the Kasuti embroidery.

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Sources of Inspiration

Kasuti embroidery of dharwad is basically very light embroidery that is formed out of variety of geometrical patterns. These patterns are close folded and, formed out of four stitches known as gavanti, muragi, nevgi and menthe. These stitches are completely based on the thread count method and are equidistant.

Hand woven fabrics make this design look amazing and different. The artisans work hard before engaging in this embroidery. They insist on drawing out the designs on paper before they can weave it on a saree. The designs and patterns are all inspired by the surrounding temples. Kasuti embroidery of dharwad is basically done on brighter shades.

Varieties

From plain Cotton sarees, this style has been adapted by variety of materials ranging from Georgette to Silk. The pallus are special flavors for this style of embroidery. Present day sources of income in the western regions of Karnataka are solely ruled by the Kai krafts or kasuti embroidery. A single embroidery or cross stitch design requires a lot of helping hands. In fact, a lot of sarees have taken up this embroidery to enrich their designs and collection.

Intricate Kasuti Work

Intricate Kasuti Work (Source: purushu)

Present Day Scenario

Today, this embroidery is no longer just prevalent in sarees. One can find fine traces of this embroidery in salwar suits and dress materials as well. Employing various kasuti weavers by bringing in the tradition of this embroidery in sarees and dress materials gives out a splendid present time for the dharwad sarees. The materials are not limited to Cotton anymore. They have started ranging from Silk to other varieties including Nylon.

Innovations

Kasuti embroidery has now spread to furniture covers and splendid curtains also. The rustic motifs are an interesting version of the kasuti embroidery that has driven the innovations in. With classic designs and beautiful embroidery, kasuti gives out an amazing collection of furniture wear.

Occasion Dressing

Given the materials and designs, kasuti embroidery of dharwad suits every occasion. The Cotton dresses and sarees can be worn when going out or staying in. You can even dress up with the dharwad sarees during weddings. This forms an ideal gift for those who are about to be married.

Suitability

No weather can prevent you from wearing the kasuti embroidery. The patterns and material make it suitable for all seasons.

Maintenance

With the kasuti embroidery, regular wash in the machine or dry cleaning would do. No heavy maintenance is required as far as these sarees are concerned. The best part is one can just soak it in a hot water bucket.

Accessorizing

The best part of these sarees is that you can wear any type of jewelry with it and, it would still look good. You can match up with a good range of colorful bangles to style up these sarees. A nice matching shawl would look good during the winters. One can even wear anklets or long earrings to adorn it.

Chronicles of the Future Foretold

Kasuti Embroidered Kurta

Kasuti Embroidered Kurta

The future is moving towards the kasuti embroidery in every kind of saree. The dharwad sarees are becoming popular across the globe with its beautiful embroidery, bracing the kurtis as well.

Interesting Facts and Comparisons

  • One can see traces of North Indian origin in this craft known as kasuti embroidery
  • Flower patterns are usually the basic patterns that beautify the look and feel of the saree
  • Next to flowers, Elephants and Peacocks are the most sought after patterns
  • These designs try to replicate the rangoli styles and patterns

References

Categories:   Motifs & Embroideries

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